by | Dec 28, 2017
Those in the fashion industry often receive information on upcoming trends that the general public does not. I recently attended a presentation on Spring 2018 trends and I am here to share it with you.
Here are the highlights:
First, mini skirts are coming back MAJOR, like they haven’t been this big since Mary Quant days in the 1960’s. Don’t be afraid to accompany them with go-go boots, you can find them at costume shops and Mary would be so pleased. Mini dresses are here too, but with slightly less fever.
[1960’s, Paco Rabanne, Yves St Laurent]
Longer skirting is also big for spring, namely in the form of loose ankle-length dresses with either no waistline or just a hint of one. Much to my relief, no one referred to these dresses as “maxis” during the presentation. Stop trying to be cutesy, Fashion, it’s annoying. These dresses – some quite elegant – give off a real “nightgown” vibe, which is just one example of the ‘lazy-sexy chic’ tendency we see in every category, although undoubtedly more lazy than chic. Comfortable casual items such as baggy shorts, sweat suits (especially the pants) and loose t-shirts are being peddled as high fashion. People want to be comfortable and there is nothing wrong with that, but pretending these items are at all stylistically interesting is just incorrect. Are we being ironic? I have always seen wearing sweat pants as a cry for help and a reason to keep the suicide hotline number close at hand.
[Cedric Charlier, Jil Sander, MMissoni]
Trench coats!! They are going to be a big deal – the “IT coat” of the season. To catch you up; trench coats originated when Thomas Burburry submitted a coat design to the UK military in 1901. The fabric used was a gabardine he had invented in 1879 that proved to protect the wearer from the elements better than any before it. These coats were produced for WWI soldiers and, because of their performance, the men continued to wear them after the war. Not long after this they were manufactured for the public.
In the 1970’s trench coats saw a huge surge in popularity and they were utterly fabulous: stylish and sexy with a huge variety of detail and fabrication. I love the wide authoritative lapels, the capes, the seam detail and the silhouette that both hugged your body and flattered it with an A-line hem that provided a stiff swish when you walked and a reason to swing your hips just a bit more. The jacket linings were made to last and were secured with French seams, unlike the flimsy acetate linings of today. Most of the outerwear you see on the streets these days is frightfully lacking in any sort of style or detail that differentiates one coat from another, which is why I am so thrilled that trenches are back.
[Burberry. 70’s trenches]
Today’s trench has taken an inspiringly conceptual turn! A variety of detail abounds. We see trench coats with creative lapels, cape elements and clever pocket detail. We also see two trench coats worn at the same time, one on top of the other. Trench coats with more than two sleeves were often seen on the runway; delightfully whimsical. If you are layering your trench coats, be sure to put the 3-armed coat on top. And please don’t worry, you can still wear the 3-sleeved coats even if you only have two arms. (So far, pants still only have two legs). We are in favor of details – like an extra arm or two – which have no practical purpose outside of aesthetic, it’s a statement and it’s playful. Life needs more play.
[Cedric Charlier, Loewe, Valentino]
Underwear, slips and bras are currently multi-tasking as regular garments. You can wear your bra over your shirt now, and over your jacket, or over nothing, no one cares anymore. You may still wear your slip as a dress and your slip as a slip that is covered with another slip or with a bra. You can wear your slip as a dress, then drape an unbuttoned cotton shirt over it, and then wear a bra over the whole lot. I’m just brainstorming here. The boob-focus is part of an overall “freedom of the nipple” direction we see happening now, which is with us for obvious reasons unless you live in an underground bunker with your cat.
Let us NOT forget, however, that in the 1980’s Madonna pioneered the wearing of undergarments and showed us how to present them properly in an ensemble! Please. She is still our leader.
[Zadig Voltaire, Phoebe English, Olivier Theyskens] [Madonna]
The fanny pack or bum bag is now being rebranded as a “belt bag” or an “arm bag”, but don’t be fooled, it is still the same shitty accessory it always was. Like Cher said in the movie Clueless: “it ruins the line!” Yes, Cher, it does. There are so many other options(!!): bucket bags, backpacks, messenger bags, vintage purses, etc, that you really should use instead.
[Valentino, Gucci, Balenciaga]
To return to the ‘lazy-sexy’ bit, shorts are back for spring in a big way. Baggy, boxer-like shorts especially. This reminds me of a trend that was big in the 1980’s. Men’s boxer shorts were frequently worn over tights and leggings. I am not sure how this started but Olivia Newton John could have been involved, or maybe it was an illegitimate lovechild of the parachute pants; I’ll get back to you on that. This leads me to another topic: leggings. What IS lazy and NOT sexy is the wearing of leggings as pants. Most of all, it is BORING. Indeed, the denim industry is suffering, but that is not my concern.
Leggings are not pants. They aren’t. And you can’t make them be pants no matter how badly you want them to be. Would you walk the streets wearing tights or nylons? Well, you may, but I would say: of course not, are you f@&%$ kidding me? Boundaries are important and this is a bit over-the-line. Cover your ass with a tunic or just put on your damn jeans on.
Remember a few years ago when the North Face logo gradually got bigger and bigger until it was as big as your head?? Ralph Lauren did it too. Well, that shit is back. BIG BRANDING. Are billboard-like brand names shouting out of your clothes a distraction from the lack of style of said tagged items? Perhaps. Are they catering to a customer who relies on a brand’s prestige to give them cachet and worth? Probably. This showy branding is primarily seen on very basic garments like t-shirts and sweaters and, due to the name alone, people are content to wear them as the ‘statement piece’ in their outfit. This is a poor substitute for thoughtful style. Like we say: dress on purpose.
[Gucci, Lanvin, Lacoste, Loewe]
In semi conclusion:
Trends are largely steered by fashion marketing interests, not by the designers. The work of fashion designers who are truly artists; the groundbreakers, the innovators, those willing to be unconventional, are often not taken seriously. This is such a shame because these are the ones who can really offer something innovative, honest and creatively meaningful, not to mention exquisite. (More on this later). Retail buyers have been playing it safe for many years now (plethora of hoodies=not going away) and for good reason, but there is still plenty of room for the daring ones who step outside the realm of what trends proclaim as “in”. Dress as you like, but please wear something because you feel good in it and it makes you happy, not because a magazine prescribes it. <3